The Brow Lamination Breakdown: Science, Systems & Aftercare
If brow lamination still feels like a mystery—or you’ve been winging it with a system you don’t fully understand—this post is for you. In Episode 9 of BROWDUCATION, I dove deep into one of my favorite topics: lamination. From the chemistry behind it to real-talk client prep and product recs, we’re breaking it all down.
What Is Brow Lamination, Really?
Lamination is a chemical treatment that restructures brow hairs to make them more flexible and styleable. It’s not just a trend—it’s a game-changer for clients who want fluff, hold, or just better shape. And yes, I was one of the first to offer it in my town. It gave me the push to walk away from facials and say yes to a service I loved—and my business exploded because of it.
The 3-Step Process (Plus a Bonus)
Lift – Step one is where the transformation begins. We use TGA (aka thioglycolic acid) or a similar active to break down the hair’s internal bonds so we can reshape them.
Neutralize – Step two (usually hydrogen peroxide-based) brings the brows back down the pH scale to a balanced, more skin- and hair-friendly state.
Hydrate – Step three is non-negotiable. It nourishes the brows post-treatment to restore moisture and prevent damage.
Optional Add-Ons – I love using vitamin treatments as a luxe add-on or during lamination maintenance appointments. These can be mixed and matched more flexibly depending on the client and system.
Know Your Science, Keep Your Power
If you’ve been blindly following one product line without knowing why you’re using it—pause. Understanding the science puts the power back in your hands as an artist. It helps you troubleshoot, adjust for different hair types, and avoid falling into brand marketing traps.
Hot tip: don’t mix step one from one brand and step two from another. But step three can be a little more flexible—especially when allergies are involved.
Ideal Clients & Realistic Expectations
Not every client is a perfect lamination candidate, and that’s okay. This treatment can be life-changing, but it’s all about setting clear expectations. Sparse or gappy brows might not get the wow-factor your client is hoping for, while full, dense brows can go next-level fluffy.
Always do a thorough consult and remember: brow soap ≠ lamination. Show a preview, explain what to expect, and be honest.
Aftercare Is Everything
Whether you’re making your own or using a ready-made product like Nourish from Ralph Hawks Beauty, every client needs proper aftercare. Build it into your pricing, explain how to use it, and most importantly—tell them why it matters. A great lamination only lasts if your client takes care of it.
My Must-Haves
Silicone spatulas – These changed my lamination game completely. I don’t use spoolies or applicators anymore.
Multiple systems – I keep Inlay and Brow Down on deck. Both have their strengths, and I choose based on the client.
Hydration + vitamins – Post-treatment health is just as important as the result.
Final Words: Be a Student
Lamination is a chemical process and takes time to master. Use enough product, understand the pH journey, pay attention to timing, and don’t be afraid to be a student again. Keep learning, stay curious, and don’t be scared to troubleshoot.
If you want to dive even deeper, check out my 25-page Brow Lamination Manual—all science-based, brand-agnostic education to help you level up.
Thanks for being here, and as always—happy laminating.